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Day 10: Clouds, cows and how to set up a tent in the pouring rain

Cabane de Moiry - Col de Sorebois - Grimentz - Zinal

We hit the trail at 7:30 as the weather forecast did not look great. Yesterday we got lucky and avoided rain, while today we woke up in a cloud that didn’t seem to move anywhere. Our steep descent wasn’t that bad actually and we could keep a good pace. We even spotted two awesome chamois just jumping casually on a vertical rock wall, no big deal.

Along Lac de Moiry our visibility hasn’t improved and so the lake was nowhere to be seen. I bet it looks spectacular on a clear day with green-blue shades (I remember it from yesterday), but I was glad that at least it wasn’t raining. 

Just before the end of the lake we took a break for my aching ankle (yep, it’s back). Just as we sat down, we realized that we are seeing more and more of the lake. It’s clearing out! It got clear enough to see the lake, while the clouds hung just below the mountain tops. Maybe we’ll be lucky today as well?..

The dam of Moiry mercifully showed up when we were taking a break

After a couple of minutes we continued up towards Col de Sorebois (2836m). The climb is fairly gradual, so the only real challenge we had was cows. As the signs on our way warned, cow moms tend to be rather protective of their babies, so hikers should keep their distance. Of course some cows enjoyed chilling straight on our path, so we had a few detour climbs. 

Unfortunately the clouds also decided to linger, soon followed by rain. It wasn’t that bad, but we had no views and so the ascent to the pass was uneventful. Once up it was not fun to stay there more than 5 minutes with wind, rain and 0 views.

I read that the descent to Zinal is long and steep, so this time I decided to save my ankle and take a lift down. I noticed that pain starts when I descend, so I should limit it. A direct lift to Zinal is closed this year, forcing us to take a lift to Grimentz from which we could take a bus to Zinal. Thank god at least that option was still on the table. 

Only when in the lift I realised how high we were (or how low the valley is) as a fancy ride took at least 10 mins. Down at Grimentz the weather turned really miserable and we had to kill two hours before the bus arrived. We did everything we could to stay indoors: had lunch, did groceries, went for a coffee. That is also when I stopped taking pictures until the next morning. 

However we tried to stay dry, all our hopes were washed away when we arrived at Zinal. From the bus stop it was only a 15 mins walk, but it was pouring outside. By the time we reached the place, we were really wet and as miserable as the weather. Sooooo cold. Bless the camping staff as they allowed us to just sit in the restaurant of the camping, even though it was a tiny place. 

We were hoping for rain to turn from a shower to a drizzle. After more than 2 hours of waiting those hopes were fading and we felt uncomfortable to sit inside that long even though it was nice and warm. We decided to set up the tent under a covered area and then walk with it to the camping area. Creative way to keep it dry and it worked.

The rest of the evening was quiet until a bunch of German students arrived at the camping and decided to pitch their tents 50cm away from ours. They were friendly enough to move their poles so that nobody trips on our tent, but hey – the whole field was empty, why cramping THAT close? I’m glad they didn’t stay awake too long as we could hear everything. I should rethink wild camping as the ultimate way to have your own space 🙂

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