Teusajaure - Kaitumjaure
- Distance: 9km
- Duration: (with breaks): 3h 15min
- Elevation gain/loss: 320m/200m
The original plan of today was to reach Singi, which was 21km from Sitojaure. However, plans are meant to be broken and I ended up staying in Kaitumjaure Fjällstuga, hiking a mere 9km.
Tonight was another night in a tent trying to stay warm. Although it was a promising night for northern lights, all I focused on was containing my warmth. I didn’t dare to move from my cocoon throughout the night to check the sky.
As the motorboat was supposed to come at 9:00, I had plenty of time for my morning routine: change from night clothes (which is basically changing from yoga pants to hiking pants), pack the sleeping system (mattress, sleeping bag, sleeping bag liner, pillow) and the best part – cook breakfast. Warm oatmeal with an instant cappuccino, what a treat!
Last night I met another hiker, who was also planning to use motorboat services (nobody wants to row the free boat three times, even if it’s only 1km). He was actually on a work mission here as he was writing a guidebook for hiking Kungsleden from south to north. What a cool project!
He also told me that at night he saw some faint northern lights, but “nothing spectacular” according to him. Well, he spends at least a few months in northern Sweden and Norway, so I bet he’s by now a bit more picky as to what are spectacular northern lights. I was a bit disappointed that I didn’t look for the lights. Oh well, there are still 5 nights left.
As the motorboat was taking me across the lake, I realized that it’s my last mandatory lake crossing. No more logistical worries, finishing the rest of the trail depends only on me.
Today the sky was anything but clear. A majestic white peaked mountain in front of my campsite was hidden in a low cloud.
From Teusajaure I continued towards the north and climbed higher, even deeper into the cloud. The peaks were mostly hidden from me with fresh snow patches shining here and there. Needless to say, it was windy, so I did not linger on the trail too long and continued towards Kaitumjaure.
Once the trail started descending into a boulder and occasional birch getaways, I could catch a breath and relax as I was shielded from the wind. That’s where I met one of the wardens of Teusajaure Fjällstuga and ended up chatting with her for good 15 minutes.
The wardens in Fjällstugas are carefully selected volunteers. The volunteering part makes sure that only people who really enjoy the outdoors apply for such a position. Every single warden I’ve met was very friendly and helpful, always curious about the journeys of the hikers. While I met quite a lot of solo hikers on Kungsleden, most of the wardens were still surprised that I’m doing this on my own. At the same time, I also got a lot of encouraging remarks for my “bravery”. So cute 🙂
Anyway, after the chat, I rushed towards Kaitumjaure. With all the socializing (I also chatted with the guide-writer for another 30 mins after we crossed the lake), today has been a very slow day. It was already 12:30 and I still haven’t reached the mid-point of today, Kaitumjaure. Luckily I didn’t meet anyone else and in less than an hour made it there.
At Kaitumjaure I met another super welcoming warden, who was very curious about a solo female Lithuanian hiker and her travels. He even invited me for a warm lemonade in his hut. That’s where I started brewing the idea of actually staying in this place. He told me that they had no reservations for the night, meaning that I could get a place for sure. Sooooo tempting.
I decided to have lunch and consider my options. If I wanted to reach Singi, I really had to get going soon as it gets dark at around 18:00. Of course, I could camp somewhere in-between as well. However, after another cold night in a tent, I felt tired and craving the comfort of a warm hut. While I was considering checking out the availability of beds in Singi, here I was in Kaitumjaure, where the whole house is available for me. Think no more, I’m staying!
Besides the whole house to myself, I also had fantastic views of Padje Kaitumjaure Lake with steep hills surrounding it. In the late afternoon, the grey clouds scattered and a shy sunshine greeted me.
What an amazing afternoon. In the hut, I put on fire in the stove, got taught by the warden how to cut wood (hut visitors are expected to refill the wood used for the stove. Back to basics, people), and even went for a short walk to the lake. In the evening the warden came for another chat. He was worried I’m feeling lonely in the hut, while I was loving it! 🙂
The whole stay was exactly what I needed to regain my energy and motivation. Something soothing was in the simple chores and the atmosphere of a Fjällstuga. After the warden left I enjoyed reading a book in a warm room with the crackling sound of the wood burning in the stove and candlelight next to me. I guess not many hikers can say that they had the whole Fjällstuga for themselves. Lucky me.
