Relais d'Arpette - Alp Bovine - Col de la Forclaz
- Distance: 18km
- Duration: (with breaks): 6h 30min
- Elevation gain/loss: 740m/830m
Up until late morning we were still deciding whether we should pick TMB variante or the regular route. Variante meant scaling Fenetre d’Arpette (2665m) – one of the most demanding crossings of the whole TMB.
Hotel staff did not speak English much, but managed to explain that there’s a lot of snow at the top, which makes the hike rather dangerous. After a guide from one of the private groups also told us that it’s a definite no no, especially since we are carrying big backpacks, we chose the regular route.
I must say that the route was not very eventful, I think TMB only grazes Switzerland without showing a lot of dramatic landscapes this country is known for. Don’t get me wrong, it was beautiful and we were surrounded by the mountains, but hey, previous stages spoiled me.
Before reaching Alp Bovine we gradually climbed up in a forested area passing several streams and fallen trees. It was a hot day and we decided to hide from the harshest sun in the outside terrace of Alp Bovine.
As it’s the only place with refreshments between Champex and Col de la Forclaz, a lot of hikers stop there. You might have to wait a bit for a free space, otherwise the fields around the bovine are also great for a break.
From Alp Bovine you can easily spot Martigny city below and white-capped mountains in the distance. These views will be hidden once descending towards Col de la Forclaz.
In some sections the descent is quite steep, so we did not rush it. As we hiked mostly in a forested area, the views were limited until we reached our campsite.
Col de la Forclaz is a set of a few houses, not really a village. Even the so-called supermarket was basically a few shelves of random goods. We stayed at the camping place of the hotel with probably one of the most scenic views for a camping place.
The day was quite short for our hiking standards and we had plenty of time to chill in the hotel area. We ate in the hotel (most expensive dinner on the trip, oh Switzerland) and I had my first and so far the tastiest rösti – a traditional Swiss potato dish.
It was definitely an enjoyable stay at this campsite, I was even getting nostalgic as only 3 days are left to enjoy this splendid trail.
Fun fact: while brushing my teeth I met a bunch of Lithuanians hiking TMB as well. During this trip I’ve met more Lithuanians than in any other holiday destination. Is there a promo for TMB or is hiking becoming more popular? I hope the second!
Day 6 tips
- If you stay in Relais D’Arpette, there's no need to go back all the way to Champex to return to the trail. Just follow the Bisse until an information sign, where you can turn left.
- If the weather permits, take the higher Fenetre d’Arpette. We did it a year after TMB (link below) and it was absolutely stunning. We walked from French side, but I'd say there's no difference.
- Our Fenetre d’Arpette experience