Alesjaure - Abiskojaure
- Distance: 22km
- Duration: (with breaks): 6h 00min
- Elevation gain/loss: 55m/345m
The previous evening when returning after a campfire evening with Ilias and Robin, I saw traces of frost on the tent, promising a chilly night. And it was a cold night. Despite that, I still peered out of the tent a few times to check the skies for the northern lights. Alas, the sky was covered in clouds, no lights tonight.
Although the night sucked, today looked very promising. I woke up to blue skies and even a hint of the sun! Don’t get me wrong, it was still bloody cold, but I definitely could not complain (hey, it could be much much worse).
After speed-packing my stuff, I decided to grab some more wholesome meal for a lunch and stopped by the grocery store in Alesjaure Fjällstuga. Secretly I also just wanted to come inside to warm up, so I definitely took my time shopping. As all mountain huts are closing today, this is my last possibility to be inside.
From Alesjaure I bid my farewell to the landscapes I came from yesterday. I was sure they will be soon hiding behind hills and I wanted to savor the views. The trail followed the shoreline of Alisjávri lake and I spotted a Sámi village on the other side. What a location to live in!
While I was leaving behind some magnificent views, what waited for me ahead was far from disappointing. Multiple blue lakes as far as I could see, shouldered by the white-capped wall of mountains – what else can you ask for??
The fantastic weather allowed me to enjoy the trail at ease. I could take as many breaks as I wanted (and I did) without getting cold. What a luxury. I met a few hikers here and there, but overall the trail was very solitary. There were definitely more reindeer on the trail than hikers.
Speaking of reindeer, today I had a small incident with them. While I was walking on a bit hilly section, I saw a herd of reindeer in a field on my left and I assumed that that’s the whole gang. Once I was close to this group, the largest reindeer (let’s call them “The Boss”) started making puffing sounds and walking towards my path.
Only then did I see that there was another reindeer stranded in front of me on the right. I decided to walk back to give them space to cross, but then I saw two other reindeer behind me also coming from the right, also trying to cross my path to their group. Unintentionally I split the herd!
The Boss looked like walking towards the stranded fellows to protect them while they tried to avoid me. Being stuck between all of them, I decided to just stand and hope that they don’t consider me a threat. Luckily the stranded ones got over their fear and crossed my path to the herd and they all trotted happily away from the mean monster (me).
I was also relieved that my mistake was done with such harmless animals as reindeer. Imagine splitting a mama bear from her cubs and then standing still 🙂
After this little incident, I continued to hike towards Abiskojaure and soon left the beautiful white mountains and lakes behind. The trail was rockier and soon I was welcomed by colorful birch trees surrounding the area. I guess this is a goodbye to the white peaks. And indeed, they were soon obscured by yellow and red hills.
Crossing a mighty Gárddenvággi river (yeah, Swedish names are awesome) meant I’m close to Abiskojaure and I’ve just entered Abisko national park. No wild camping is allowed in the territory of the park, except a few designated places such as Abiskojaure Fjällstuga. I am soooooo close to the finish.
Abiskojaure Fjällstuga was already closed, but there were plenty of hikers camping around it. After setting up my Big Agnes house (my tent), I walked to the river shore for my last dinner on the trail. It felt surreal to realize that only 15km are left to hike. As I stared at the mountains in the distance, I kept on thinking how I’m going to miss being surrounded by such fantastic views. One more day though.
Day 9 tips
- For those who don't want to camp in Abiskojaure, there are many camping spots near the Gárddenvággi river. Might be a handy place to stop there if you're hiking from the North.
- In summer there is an option to shorten this stage by crossing the Alisjávri lake by private boat. It is not possible to do that in September.